Next Step: Blue Ventures

As many of you already know. I am now on my way back to madagascar. I was home from Dec. 23rd 2008 until today, the 27th of January. I'd like to say thank you to all the friends that I saw. It was a great joy to see you all again and to catch up on all that's changed in the last year and a haf. Thank you for your generosity, enduring support, and lasting friendship. To those that I didn't manage to see, I apologize. I'll be back in just a few short months (late September) for a friend's wedding, so I hope to catch you then.

I am returning to Madagascar with yet another new mission. I have left my position as project coordinator with Reef Doctor in Ifaty, Tulear. I will retain an advisory role there and may yet return sometime in the future. For now, however, I am heading to Blue Ventures in Andavadoake (4 hours South of Morambe). I will be project coordinator there as well. The organization is very similiar to Reef Doctor. They are a british NGO focused on marine conservation. I would encourage all of you, if you have not already done so, to have a look at their website: www.blueventures.org.

I'm hoping to start updating this website more often so check back frequently or subscribe to the RSS.

Project Coordinator PBD

I'm still alive. Sorry for not posting / emailing / writing letters. Two weeks ago I was made Project Coordinator for Reef Doctor. Until we find a replacement for me, I will have to do the job of two people. I've been a bit busy. I also haven't been into Toliara for more than a few hours in 2 weeks.

So, you might wonder what Project Coordinator means. In a word, it means: Boss of Everyone and Everything. Well, ok, maybe not. But, I am in charge of the day to day operation of the Reef Doctor team in Ifaty. I am responble for coordinating the various scientific activities and development projects that RD has undertaken and for helping to plan our next steps. Roderick is the company director and therefor is still the boss of me. That's alright though, because he's a smart guy and works hard to get us funding. He started Reef Doctor and has lots of experience working with government officials, the big NGOs and other assorted noobs. Besides, he doesn't mind the draconia "efficiency beatings" and "productivity torture" policies that I've instituted.

Our current team in Ifaty consists of 4 (3 Malagasy and one British) Science Officers, a French Head Science Officer, 2 Volunteers (one American and one check) working on agricultural development projects, a american masters student (from the University of Cape Town) writing a masters thesis on environmental management, 2 boatmen, 1 socioeconomic data collector, 2 guards, one cook, one washwoman, and one cleaning woman.

The Vezo soundtrack

My reed hut sits 3 meters from the ocean. Our complex (6 huts, a house, a mess hall and a small boat) is a 6 minute walk along the beach from the village of Ifaty. Except for those relatively few occasions when a funeral, marriage, seance or volleyball match send pulsing beats of bass, childish shouts of excitement, or high-pitched whistles and cheers, the village is out of earshot. Walking toward the village, the soft silence of our compound is overtaken by the energy and chaos of Ifaty.

Under the glossy sparkle of starlight the gentle waves flop morosely onto the shore. A light rumbling of voices and portable gas generators drifts in and out of the ear as the ocean`s breath inhales and exhales gently. Distant dogs ring out a low bassline accompaniment to the scattered and hurried beat of multiple speakers playing a multitude of music. The sweet and newbie flurry of children`s singing rises ahead ending in frustration and cheers. A passing man violently interrupts your thoughts with an exasperated `Bonjour Vazaha!` A bleating goat pulls you back into concentration as you pass a crackling fire and snapping sail whipped around by an excited gust. A gush of laughter whooshes around you as children grab at your hand screaming `Soni, Soni, Soni!`

 
<<Tonga Zaho>> I've arrived. This is Ifaty.

The details

Hello all. I`m back in Toliara for a bit. I came in yesterday and I go back tomorrow. I`ve had 2 steaks and 2 ice creams and several showers with running water. Life is good.

I thought I`d use this post to explain exactly what I`m doing here since I was a little sketchy on the details before I left.

 I work for an NGO called, Reef Doctor. We are a tiny NGO that works only in the Bay of Ranobe here in Madagascar. Our main objective is to organize a community resource management scheme for the entirety of the Bay in order to preserve the reef system and therefore the lives and livelihoods of the people who leave there. The first step toward this goal was reached last year with the formalization of a traditionally protected piece of coral known as `The Rose Garden`. Reef doctor worked with the local community, local officials and the national government in order to put in place the first officially (legally) recognized community managed Marine Protected Area (MPA) in Madagascar. From here the goal is to use the legal framework already developed to create several more MPA`s in the bay as well as to set up rotational fishing areas (where fishing is closed for months at a time) in order to relieve fishing pressure on sensitive areas during breeding times.

Secondary to this main project, Reef Doctor does marine research and runs environmental education and community development programs. My primary task is to help organize the education and development programs. To this effect I will be taking over coordination responsibilities for the local women`s group that we helped organize, the sunday kids club where we teach kids about the environment and also get them out of there normal work chores for a bit of fun. Additionally, I am working to further develop the Pirougers club which is an association of local guides who take tourists out snorkeling on the reef. Also, I`m going to be working with the local primary schools to introduce a new environmental education program and also a weekly art class.

So there. That`s what I`m doing. So far I`ve found the villagers to be friendly, open to new ideas, and very receptive to our ideas. It`s going to be a busy year, but one that I know will be highly rewarding and meaningful. Life is good. 

Adventures of the PBD in Madagascar. Act 2, Scene 1

I'm not quite sure how it happened, but I appear to be back in Madagascar. Perhaps I never really left, but just had a particularly vivid malaria-induced dream about going back to America-land, sleeping until noon, eating chubby food, and driving around in a Ford Taurus wagon. That seems most likely.

 It smells like Madagascar. Dust, diesel fuel, rotting vegetables, bananas, baking bread, charcoal briquettes, sweat, cows, and cheap perfume. It also smells of hot, like I can smell the sunshine. Maybe it's only the smell of my skin tanning.

Walking down the street is an activity worthy of strong concentration. No leisurely strolling allowed. Dodge the car, step around the muck, watch out for the approaching rickshaw, "who's that following me?," "where's the hardware store?" "what's that guy saying to me?" "tell the painted lady to go away," watch out for the car! "that's a particularly offensive smell," "that girl is cute!" "no thanks, I rather don't need half-rotten bananas or coat hangers, maybe next time," "sorry, beggar, no money here"

Note to readers:

I ask two things of you now. You must remember two places. Toliara and Ifaty. I can't explain them in every post, so don't forget them. Here they are:

Toliara: My banking town. The place where I do all business that I can't do in Ifaty, my village. Toliara is the second largest city in Madagascar. 400,000 people. It is hot and dusty and full of charm, hotels, slums, ox-carts, and great and not-so great restaurants. It is the only place where I have internet access. Hence, I am here right now.

 Ifaty- My village. Located 25Km north of Toliara. There are 3 fancy hotels nearby and 7 or so fancy hotels sort-of nearby. The village is located on the Bay of Ranobe. This is the lagoon / reef system which Reef Doctor (my new employer) is aiming to protect / conserve / slow the destruction of. Ifaty is quite a bit bigger than my village from my Peace Corps days (that village was called, Antsanitia as my frequent readers may remember). Ifaty has 1000- 1200 people. It has 2.5 bars. It doesn't, of course have electricity, running water, or fabulous cell phone reception. Actually, it doesn't even have fresh water. The girls and women fetch water (in buckets on their heads) from a source some 2 kilometers away. It can also be purchased from a rich villager who trucks it in from Toliara.

So those are the future settings for the play. Remember them. For now I've got to run. I'm back to Ifaty for another week or so. I'll write again then.

Farewell,

Shawn